The canvased suit: A class above all others
The distinction of a quality suit that will last you for years lies in the construction. The construction of a bespoke suit is a work of art that requires numerous elements to bring you a garment that will stand the test of time. Not only are fabric and fit of utmost importance, but what goes into the garments to give them shape and structure, though not seen from the outside, plays a significant role in the final look of the suit.
Bespoke suiting, unlike its cheaper made to measure and off the rack counterparts, will have a floating horsehair canvas that sits between the lining and the main fabric. Horsehair canvasing has been used by tailors for centuries, to give a suit jacket shape, body and structure through the front chest and stomach areas. Unlike modern-day fusing options, horsehair canvasing will breathe. With a quality fabric and Bemberg cotton lining, each element of the garment will have air freely move through the body allowing for the best ventilation. Cheaper, fused garments will have the fusing glued to the main fabric, causing the gentlemen to sweat.
Fully canvased suits will last you for years if you take quality care. Another important distinction is a canvased suit will not only hold its shape over time, but molds to your shape and body over time aging the suit like a fine wine and making it unmistakably yours. Fused suits, though they look good on the rack upon purchase, after a few months of wear and dry cleaning, will lose shape and look incredibly drab and tired. You will need a new suit after a season of wear. Fusing will peel away from the main fabric in time, giving a bubble effect around areas of wear on the jacket. Canvasing will never give you these issues as it floats between the main fabric and lining, hitched in specific areas, allowing for ease of movement and drape over the body.